Humble Beginnings, A New Direction

Looking back, I finally realized that each step I’ve taken in the past 6 months have led towards the slow beginnings towards the Provenance of Food.

往回想，這六個月的經驗一步一步的帶了我往回走。慢慢的，一步一步尋找食物的來源。

In the heat of this past summer, I was approached by the Taiwanese Cultural Festival organizers to do a short presentation and cooking demonstration for their upcoming event. Having spent 4 months of the year in Taiwan thus far, one of which was to travel with a food writer throughout Taiwan, I began digging for possible topics and recipes in relation to my cultural background and experiences for my hour long presentation. Childhood memories of night markets came to mind, more recently the discovery of delicious seafood restaurants, and the abundance of cheap eats and street stalls. Although all above mentioned are experiences that tourists and locals alike both enjoy, I felt sudden a lack of passion and excitement towards food that I had reveled over for so long on every seemingly too short visit.

今年在離開教了我許多的法試料理餐廳之後，多倫多與溫哥華的台灣文化節主辦單位一次又一次的給了我許多美好的機會。第一次是邀請了我陪伴一個加拿大美食專家返回台灣寫有關於台灣美食的專欄。第二，是創造了一個讓我發表我所看到與學到的東西的平台。在被邀請去台灣文化節中發表跟台灣食品有關的題目時，我想了很久。從小在國外長大的我，一只喜歡吃夜市，路邊攤，海產店，還有各式各樣的小吃。雖然對一個在國外長大的我，或是一個觀光客來說，台灣小吃是一個美好的美食經驗，我忽然在寫演講稿之中發覺我以對這些美食失去了興趣。

At first, I couldn’t quite comprehend this lackluster feeling, then it struck me, my perspective of food had changed the moment I walked into the beautiful crisp green bamboo forest one early summer morning. Although I had not realized this immediately, the recent turn of events allowed me to recognize that the food experiences I appreciated the most in my time spent in Taiwan were not those in which I spent dining (whether at food stalls or fine dining), but those that brought me back to the Provenance of Food. These, were the experiences that I now appreciated and had a desire to share. Thus, began my journey towards the Provenance of Food. 

剛開始，我無法離解為什麼我會突然對熱愛了那麼久的食品莫名的失去了興趣。但想了很久之後才瞭解，我在年初返回台灣踏步進入有機竹林的那一刻改變了我對食物的看法。也因此覺悟到我今年在台灣最深刻的美食經驗不是來置於吃到的美食，而是在尋找食物的來源與精神當中。我也因此開始往尋找食物來源的路走。

Foodie Adventures, Taiwan: Warped Through a Time Machine

Dinner 14 hours after landing in Taiwan that morning, closing in on possibly 48 sleepless hours at this point, I stepped through the doors of a restaurant and almost had to do a double take. Pinching myself, I checked to see if I was dreaming or just plain delusional at this point. It felt as if I had just been warped through a time machine.

Emerging through the wooden doorway, I walked out into a courtyard (well… I was still technically in doors) filled with large round tables covered in red table clothes, tables filled with food, and shops lined with the antique green wooden doors and window frames displaying memorabilia. A rush of servers in old school uniforms from the 60’s serving out dishes carrying scents that trigger a sense of nostalgia for those who still have the taste of these familiar dishes lingering on their tongue. For those like me, who aren’t familiar with this street dining culture, the bustle in the room was enough to get me excited.

DISCLAIMER: One thing to understand about this restaurant before we start is that the food is not meant to be "high end". The food is made to resemble the simplistic, homemade, rustic feel of food eaten in a not so wealthy and gastronomical time. That being said, the you are going for the ambiance and the novelty of the restaurant, while enjoying decent tasting food. 

As the dishes quickly began arriving, our table top began to disappear and will up with an array of different rice dishes (sweet potato on rice, pork lard rice, sakura shrimp on rice), oysters in black bean paste, steamed fish, pork belly, tempura battered shrimp, and more...

For someone who doesn’t usually eat much rice (I know, I’m abnormal for an Asian, it’s like an Italian claiming they don’t eat pasta), I was shoveling the rice down like any normal Asian. The pork lard with rice (as unappetizing as it may sound) was absolutely delicious. It’s like duck fat fried rice, but with pork fat! The fragrant, al dente, individual grains of rice, with just the right amount of fat and saltiness to satisfy any craving for carbs. As for the sakura shrimp on rice, the sweet, crisp texture of the dried fried shrimp were a delicious contrast to the rice.

Surprisingly, the most memorable dish of the night was a chicken broth. Filled with plump, firm chunks of chicken, with the spiciness of whole pickled green chilies and sliced ginger. An absolutely perfect dish to warm yourself up with on a rainy day sitting in a slightly overly blast chilled (air conditioned) restaurant. After finishing enough soup to feed a whole family, I made a mental note to go out and buy a jar of pickled chilies to bring back to Toronto with me the next day for my future attempt in replicating this dish.

As the meal came to an end and my belly was filled with an array of seafood, meats and carbs, food coma induced exhaustion and the lack of sleep started to kick in. I took a quick walk around the restaurant and stood in the faux train station listening to the relaxing sound of the rain on the tracks while the "station" slowly emptied out. This signalled that it was time to head back into the rain and into bed back at the hotel. Good night world! Until tomorrow… 

鳳山懷舊餐廳
高雄館：高雄市鼓山區明誠三路1號
1 Mingcheng 3rd Road, Gushan District, Kaohsiung City, Taiwan
Tel: (07) 522-8852
Hours: 11AM - 12AM 
Website: http://www.oldtaiwan.com.tw/

Foodie Adventures, Taiwan: How I Fell in Love with Feet

Now, I know what you’re thinking... If you haven’t already been grossed out and stopped reading after the title, I’m NOT talking about toe sniffing, creepy foot loving foot fetish. I’m talking plump, juicy, glistening pig trotters on a hot bowl of noodles.

Growing up in an Asian family, pig trotters and noodles have many cultural and superstitious meanings. The elderly eat it on their birthday because the noodles represent longevity and trotters represent health (although never bite through the middle of a noodle if you’re eating it at someone’s birthday, you may offend an elderly as it represents cutting their lifespan short). Daughters send mothers this dish in order with to wish their mothers a long and fortunate life.

Growing up in a western culture, I’ve mainly been indifferent about this dish. The often chewy texture, with not much meat in return for the effort of gnawing on a bone that sometimes lacked in flavour made for a reason for lack of interest. Yet this was something else in itself. This dish definitely caught my attention the minute it arrived at my table, even after a 9 hour work day followed by an 18 hour flight, 5 hour layover, 2 hour train ride, and closing in on 36 sleepless hours.

Finally arriving in southern Taiwan where it was 35 degrees Celsius and 80% humidity (mind you, it was a cool 10 degrees when I left home 36 hrs ago), the thought of eating anything hot was out of the question. Yet, sleep walking up to the display case lined with glistening, steaming food, I could feel myself salivating. Three bland, colourless, overcooked airplane meals will leave anybody with taste buds craving for a decent meal. Might I say, we got a little point happy at the sight of this that we pointed out so many dishes we wanted to order, that the server finally asked us to sit down, stating that we more than likely had enough food for the three of us (or potentially to feed a small village of starving children).

As the food began arriving at our table, I couldn’t help being over come by a feeling of bliss. Cool AC blowing over my shoulder, the scent of a delicious meal drifting through the air, our table lined with countless colourful dishes, now THIS is what the 36 hour flight was for. The crisp crunch of dried baby crabs sautéed with chilies, peanuts and sesame…  tender, crisp, fresh, green asparagus with shimeji mushrooms… sautéed squid with snow peas… plump, tender, perfectly braised ham hock… and the list goes on. Yet, just when I thought I was full, the chefs sent out what would be the most memorable part of my meal.

The shine on this perfectly braised (when I say perfect, I mean glistening in the sunlight, no puncture wounds, smooth) pig trotter was like none I’d seen before. Just by looking at it, you could tell that this was one trotter that had been treated with some tender love and care. Regardless of what angle you looked at it from, it was just perfection. As I took my first bite, my teeth sank effortlessly through the skin, which was still ever so slightly firm that you don’t feel as if you are biting through a mouthful of fat, yet the meat was so tender that it was nearly fall off the bone. The perfect balance of saltiness and slight hint of sweetness of this dish, nearly made my eyes roll to the back of my head with pleasure. Foodgasm #1 of the trip. The bed of dried noodles on the bottom, not too soft and not too firm, just barely al dante, soaked up the flavours of the trotters.

There’s a first for everything, and this was the first time I fell in love with feet. My only complaint was that I didn’t have these tender trotters and noodles to begin my meal. Although, it may have been a good thing, since I may just have been tempted to order 3 bowls of it and not leave room for anything else. Sometimes a tease is better than overdosing on something.

If you’re ever in Kaoshiong, (southern) Taiwan, this is definitely a dish worth trying.

鄧師傅 Chef Teng

台灣高雄市800新興區中正三路82號

82 Jhong-Jheng 3rd Road,Sinsing District, Kaohsiung.

Tel: 07.236.1822

Hours: 11AM - 9PM

Website: http://www.chefteng.com/

Foodie Adventure, Taiwan: Travelling with a Food Writer

About a month ago, I was asked to take a food writer on an all expenses paid for tour of Taiwan to introduce to him the glorious food culture of Taiwan. For those who have been to Taiwan, you’ll likely understand why this was an opportunity that you can’t turn down (who turns down a free round trip ticket to Asia, plus 3 weeks of food and accommodations all paid for anyways?). For those who’ve never been, Taiwan is filled with such an array of restaurants and food that it is nearly impossible to categorize, but I’ll make my attempt.

A few simplified ways to categorize your options…

Elegant-and-sophisticated: great food and service, calming ambiance, exceptional décor, views of the city below, and more… any one or more of the conditions above may apply

Surprise-foodgasm: so unexpected that it leaves you screaming for more. Need I say more?

Not-for-the-weak: food stands, dishes or market scenes that aren’t quite fit for those with a sensitive gag reflex.

Worthy-of-risk: whether it’s a sketchy looking food stall or a sit down “restaurant” (that more resembles a hole in the wall) with foldable tables and flimsy plastic stools, the food is good enough that your stomach will be willing to take a risk and eat from this grimy looking place although all your health and sanitation consciences scream otherwise. I must admit, most of the best food in Asia comes from such dives.

With that said, let the hunger games begin! 

Next Stop: Ilha Formosa, Taiwan

Being home for only 10 short days, time to pack my bags again and hop back on another long haul flight. Destination, TAIWAN. The trip ahead holds a 3 week culinary adventure starting from the most southern tip of Taiwan, slowly moving up to the northern tip, Taipei.

Goodbye Toronto. Hello Taiwan.

Foodie Adventure, New York: Per Se

Having planned this trip to New York last minute, I was not too optimistic about landing a reservation at Per Se. Known to be one of the toughest restaurants to land a reservation at in New York City, Per Se does not accept reservations within 30 days of the requested date. So, you can imagine the excitement when I found out they take walk in diners in their lounge seating. It was like Christmas morning had come.

Not knowing how busy the restaurant would be for lunch, we made our way to the restaurant early on Saturday at noon in order to guarantee a seat in the lounge. Arriving on the 4^th floor of Columbus Circle, I immediately spot the unmistakable blue doors. Fortunately for me, Per Se lounge seating is not a first choice Saturday brunch or lunch option for most New Yorkers. Table for 3 please!

As much as a 10 course tasting menu is tough to turn down, it was just slightly early in the day for that, my stomach had yet to fully wake from slumber. Instead, I quickly skimmed through the a la carte menu, ordered a few menu items that I was interested in seeing for the table, and we were soon sitting in anticipation.

Soon enough, the signature Thomas Keller canapés began to emerge at our table. First, the small golden pearls of goodness, Gourgeres filled with Mornay.

Now, who doesn’t like a waffle cone? Even better when it comes in the form of Thomas Keller’s delicious Black Sesame Cornets filled with Salmon Tartare and Red Onion Crème Fraiche. These visually ice cream like cones were just small enough to leave me craving for more.

Soon after, the irresistible scent of warm bread drifted over as the basket of bread followed closely in the footsteps of its scent. Inside, sat neatly arranged warm pretzels, sour dough and French baguette. 

Accompanying the bread was 2 different butters (salted and slightly sweet organic butter from Straus Family Creamery, and hand made Animal Farm butter which is produced from grass-fed Jersey cows), and 2 different salts (Jurassic pink salt from a Montana copper mine, and Sel Gris from the shores of Brittany, France)

Failure to resist the temptation of filling up on bread was a result of the first bite into the warm pretzels smothered in organic butter. The arrival of warm brioche made that an even further lost cause. Luckily for me, the Foie Gras Torchon (Persimmon and Vanilla Glaze w/ Saffron Emulsion) arrived with the warm buttery buns. The warmth of the bread with the richness of the foie, balanced with a touch of sweetness and acidity. Having always enjoyed a good slice of foie gras torchon or terrine, this was no exception. Perfection. Had to consciously stop my eyes from rolling to the back of my head in pleasure. 

Butter Poached Lobster Tail w/ Pea Shoot Veloute, Radishes and New Potatoes. Personally, I like my lobster tail poached just slightly under, so to me, this was just the slightest bit over cooked. Although, definitely nowhere near a rubbery, chewy overcooked texture, I still had the texture of the Eleven Madison Park lobster tail engrained in my mind.

Culotte of Beef, Artichoke Stuffed with Beef Short Rib, Carrots and Bordelaise. Tender cuts of beef paired with a rich, glossy bordelaise sauce is nearly impossible to dislike. Had one bite and instantaneously wished that I had enough room in my stomach for my own main course, and an order of beef.

Squab Breast w/ Marcona Almond Jus, Cilantro Puree and Turnips. Perfectly medium rare, the squab had the characteristics of game bird that I love, while some may dislike. If you like duck though, you can’t go wrong with this option. Texturally, the tenderness of the squab breast was perfectly paired with the crunch of the almonds, the crispness of turnips, and the creamy puree of cilantro. Did not regret ordering squab over either of the other two dishes for even a second.

Yuzu, Chocolate, Pomegranate and Grapefruit Sorbets were a perfect way to end the meal with a light, smooth, melt on your tongue goodness. Each was balanced texturally with different elements.

Just when you think the meal is over, they send out a tower of petit fours to finish off with my coffee. At this point, I was thankful that I opted out of the tasting menu for lunch. Food coma was setting in, and I was ready to roll back into bed.

As if there weren’t enough surprises already, with the bill, came perfectly wrapped packages of short bread cookies for each of us to take home for good measures. Thomas Keller definitely stops at nothing to ensure your palette is completely satisfied and then some.

Last words:

Salon seating is definitely a great option. If you’re not hungry enough to enjoy the tasting menu, or wasn’t able to make reservations a month ahead, yet still don’t want to miss out on the Per Se experience, the salon is a choice to consider. On a side note, it seems as if you’ll experience more privacy in the salon then in the main dining room. We were the only table seated for brunch that day in the salon.  

My only slight complaint about the dining experience was that I sensed the slightest of pretentiousness each time one particular server approached the table. Aside from that, all the staff was extremely friendly and helpful. Would definitely return given the opportunity (or enough ahead of time planning) to try the tasting menu. 

Foodie Adventure, New York: Eleven Madison Park... For the Love of Duck

After my visit to New York earlier in the month, the taste of those white truffles still lingered on my tongue and the fleeting image of the whole roasted duck that had passed us by was still fresh in my mind. Hence, there was no question about returning to Eleven Madison Park. Menu. Although there had been slight changes to the menu since my last visit, the menu had remained the same for the most part.

To start, quail eggs sunny side on toasted brioche. Brioche is great on it’s own, but when you add a runny yolk and bacon bits, it’s just that much more satisfying.

Smoked apple and celery tea. Sweetness and acidity, infused with a hint of thyme was an interesting play on the combination of apple and celery that works quite well.

Again, we were presented with fresh baked warm bread and smoked sturgeon sabayon. Both just as satisfying the second time as the first time around.

Ordering foie gras once again as my appetizer, I mentioned that I had visited the restaurant just weeks earlier, and asked if the dish had changed at all. The server kindly stated that she would mention that to the chef and see what they could come up with. They soon presented me with this: Seared foie gras with apples and oats. The acidity of the apples balanced out the fattiness of the foie gras. As for texture, Chef Humm’s love for granola gave the dish texture in a delicious breakfast manner.

Onward and forward to our second dishes.
Lobster poached in meyer lemon beurre blanc, burnt leek, potato puree with a bay leaf and black shellfish bisque. Again, a contrast of flavours and textures that I would have never imagined were tingling my taste buds. Ordinarily, “burnt” is associated with the flavour of bitterness, but this burnt leek had a crisp (crouton like) texture that complemented the dish perfectly.

Snapper poached in benito slurry with baby octopus, fennel and seaweed with winter citrus and blood orange glaze. Yet another beautifully plated dish with contrasting colours and flavours. The acidity from the citrus brings out the flavours of the seafood perfectly.

Cauliflower roasted and pureed with madras curry, paired with couscous, marcona almonds and rehydrated raisins. Although I didn’t taste this dish, the scent of the curry lightly drifted across the table and tickled my senses.

Now, the Duck. The duck is what I came for. My last visit, the duck seemed to ever so slowly pass by our table, giving off just enough of its scent for us to all turn our heads in a jaw dropping “Oooo” and “Ahhhh”. and all instantaneously regret not having ordered the duck. I was definitely not about to let that happen a second time.

The duck arrived tableside with all it’s glory, the sunlight from the large windows reflecting off its coat of lavender honey. As they cut through the roasted bird, the scent of roasted muscovy duck seems like such a tease.

When the plate was finally presented in front of us, it was no disappointment. The crisp layer of skin covered in spices, achieved only by aging the duck, perfectly rendered layer of fat, and juicy tender duck breast. It was all that I had imagined and more.

As we were indulging on the roasted duck breast, they took away the remainder of the duck. They soon returned with bowls of duck confit with steaming potato mousseline. As full as I was, it was hard to resist this hearty dish.

Once again, as a pre-dessert course, we were presented with vanilla malt egg cream and a deconstructed strawberry goat’s cheese cheesecake.

Pear, much like the quince dessert that I had my previous visit. Difference was, it was pear instead of quince. Still delicious, although nothing surprising.

Coconut and pineapple sorbets melted deliciously on your tongue leaving you craving for more. Bits of toasted coconut slivers added a but of nuttiness as well as texture to the dish. Not generally the biggest fan of pineapple, this was definitely a hit for me.

Last but not least, white and black truffles. The absolute perfect way to end a meal, just as before. It will definitely be a sad day when they replace these petits fours that pack an element of surprise to them. At the end of the day, I again left feeling like I could pass up dinner that day. Yet, I still look forward to my next visit. Second time was just as good as the last. Completely and utterly satisfied.