Not knowing how busy the restaurant would be for lunch, we
made our way to the restaurant early on Saturday at noon in order to guarantee
a seat in the lounge. Arriving on the 4th floor of Columbus Circle,
I immediately spot the unmistakable blue doors. Fortunately for me, Per Se
lounge seating is not a first choice Saturday brunch or lunch option for most
New Yorkers. Table for 3 please!
As much as a 10 course tasting menu is tough to turn down,
it was just slightly early in the day for that, my stomach had yet to fully
wake from slumber. Instead, I quickly skimmed through the a la carte menu, ordered
a few menu items that I was interested in seeing for the table, and we were
soon sitting in anticipation.
Soon enough, the signature Thomas Keller canapés began to
emerge at our table. First, the small golden pearls of goodness, Gourgeres
filled with Mornay.
Now, who doesn’t like a waffle cone? Even better when it
comes in the form of Thomas Keller’s delicious Black Sesame Cornets filled with
Salmon Tartare and Red Onion Crème Fraiche. These visually ice cream like cones were
just small enough to leave me craving for more.
Soon after, the irresistible scent of warm bread drifted
over as the basket of bread followed closely in the footsteps of its scent. Inside, sat
neatly arranged warm pretzels, sour dough and French baguette.
Accompanying the
bread was 2 different butters (salted and slightly sweet organic butter from
Straus Family Creamery, and hand made Animal Farm butter which is produced from
grass-fed Jersey cows), and 2 different salts (Jurassic pink salt from a
Montana copper mine, and Sel Gris from the shores of Brittany, France)
Failure to resist the temptation of filling up on bread was
a result of the first bite into the warm pretzels smothered in organic butter.
The arrival of warm brioche made that an even further lost cause. Luckily for
me, the Foie Gras Torchon (Persimmon and Vanilla Glaze w/ Saffron Emulsion)
arrived with the warm buttery buns. The warmth of the bread with the richness
of the foie, balanced with a touch of sweetness and acidity. Having always
enjoyed a good slice of foie gras torchon or terrine, this was no exception.
Perfection. Had to consciously stop my eyes from rolling to the back of my head in pleasure.
Butter Poached Lobster Tail w/ Pea Shoot Veloute, Radishes
and New Potatoes. Personally, I like my lobster tail poached just slightly
under, so to me, this was just the slightest bit over cooked. Although, definitely
nowhere near a rubbery, chewy overcooked texture, I still had the texture of
the Eleven Madison Park lobster tail engrained in my mind.
Culotte of Beef, Artichoke Stuffed with Beef Short Rib,
Carrots and Bordelaise. Tender cuts of beef paired with a rich, glossy
bordelaise sauce is nearly impossible to dislike. Had one bite and
instantaneously wished that I had enough room in my stomach for my own main
course, and an order of beef.
Squab Breast w/ Marcona Almond Jus, Cilantro Puree and
Turnips. Perfectly medium rare, the squab had the characteristics of game bird
that I love, while some may dislike. If you like duck though, you can’t go
wrong with this option. Texturally, the tenderness of the squab breast was
perfectly paired with the crunch of the almonds, the crispness of turnips, and
the creamy puree of cilantro. Did not regret ordering squab over either of the
other two dishes for even a second.
Yuzu, Chocolate, Pomegranate and Grapefruit Sorbets were a
perfect way to end the meal with a light, smooth, melt on your tongue goodness.
Each was balanced texturally with different elements.
Just when you think the meal is over, they send out a tower
of petit fours to finish off with my coffee. At this point, I was thankful that
I opted out of the tasting menu for lunch. Food coma was setting in, and I was
ready to roll back into bed.
As if there weren’t enough surprises already, with the bill,
came perfectly wrapped packages of short bread cookies for each of us to take
home for good measures. Thomas Keller definitely stops at nothing to ensure
your palette is completely satisfied and then some.
Last words:
Salon seating is definitely a great option. If you’re not
hungry enough to enjoy the tasting menu, or wasn’t able to make reservations a
month ahead, yet still don’t want to miss out on the Per Se experience, the
salon is a choice to consider. On a side note, it seems as if you’ll experience
more privacy in the salon then in the main dining room. We were the only table
seated for brunch that day in the salon.
My only slight complaint about the dining experience was
that I sensed the slightest of pretentiousness each time one particular server
approached the table. Aside from that, all the staff was extremely friendly and
helpful. Would definitely return given the opportunity (or enough ahead of time
planning) to try the tasting menu.
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