Not quite realizing it at the moment, but this would be the inspiration that began my search for the provenance of food.
Returning to Taiwan earlier this year, I was put in contact
with a young chef who is dedicated to organic whole foods. Meeting with her for
the first time, she offered to take me to a local organic farm which she
maintained a close working relationship with. Not quite realizing it at the
moment, but this would be the inspiration that began my search for the
provenance of food.
On that rainy spring morning in Taipei, I began my 45-minute
train ride into the outskirts of Taipei. A half hour drive up winding mountain
roads later, we arrived at a traditionally built old home where the walls were
lined with firewood inside a u-shaped courtyard. Here, we were met by a young
farmer who looked no older than 30. Getting out of the car, he swiftly handed
us rain boots stating that it would be a muddy hike as it had been raining all
morning. I pulled them on, and we started out on my first journey through an
organic farm.
As we began our trek down the slippery slope, the clouds
began to clear and the sun peaked through, sending crisp green rays through the
bamboo forest. I was instantly awestruck by the beauty of my surroundings. I
silently followed as the farmer led us deeper into the woods.
We soon approached a clearing, and the young man began to
explain to me his concepts on sustainability and organic farming. Being the
first to pursue organic bamboo farming in this region, his practices were met
with skepticism as well as challenges.
One of the biggest challenges he faced starting out, was the
pests (aphids: small sap-sucking insects) that took refuge in his crop as the
surrounding farms were still using pesticides. While faced with the potential
risks and losses as a result, he insisted on pressing on. Just as his
confidence began to waver, nature took its course, bringing in ladybugs (the
natural predators of aphids) and saved his crop.
As the local species of wildlife began to diversify, he
began recreating natural habitats to promote sustainable ecological growth in
the area. This effort included manually digging a pond in order to stimulate
the reproduction of rare frogs.
With our trip drawing to an end, the young farmer generously
harvested the fruits of his labour for us to take. While he cleaned and husked
the bamboo shoots, I began to feel the fatigue setting in from hiking up and
down the mountains under the sun in 30 plus degree weather. It was then, that I
realized the scope of labour required to produce such a crop. Unlike, wheat,
corn, or any other produce produced on flat land, bamboo farming is heavily
reliant on manual labour. The bamboo survives best on elevated soil, therefore
rendering machine harvesting impossible.
I left that evening touched by the passion this young man
possessed in regards to using the limited resources that he had in order to create
a positive impact on the local environment. I left hoping that I would one day
be fortunate enough to revisit this stunningly beautiful landscape.
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