Perspective, A Plant's Eye View

One of my favourite books in regards to American agriculture has been The Omnivore's Dilemma by Michael Pollan. In his book, he talks about the various issues raised by modern day agricultural practices, and experiences from farms he has visited. I recently came across a video from his presentation at Ted.com and thought it was a great summary of his book. If only we could all look at agriculture from a different perspective, maybe we'd realize that maybe we've got it all wrong all along.

The Lure of a Traditional Market, Taiwan

The beauty of a market place has always been that it is a window into a country’s culture.  When I use the word market, I am not referring to your local supermarket. I am referring to farmer’s markets and traditional markets, where local producers passionate about their product, whether it be produce or livestock, are there to sell you all that the season has to offer.

As a child, I was often reluctantly in tow behind my grandmother as she shopped through the traditional markets on my annual visit to Taiwan. Often times, the result was my refusal to eat chicken or pork for the remainder of the summer after the cruel reminder of the realities of where meat comes from. 

Even so, there is a beauty about a traditional marketplace that I’ve learned to appreciate over the years. The culture, the energy, the people who once worked as young vendor watching children run by, but as their hairs grey the once children return as adults with their own family to buy weekly produce from a familiar face. 

There is an array of meat to choose from, generally non-refrigerated, and sitting on the countertop amidst the warm summer breeze. Not quite what North Americans may be used to, but the animals are generally slaughtered just hours before you point out which portion you'd like to take home. For the best cuts of meat, housewives arrive at the morning market early as supply is generally limited to the number of animals slaughtered per day per vendor. A nose to tail dining concept is definitely not lacking in Taiwan, you will find every imaginable part of a pig being sold by the local vendors. 

As Taiwan is known for its abundance of fresh seafood, the traditional marketplace definitely showcases the best of the day's catch. From the fish that are still moving with livelihood, to the glistening eyes, and firmness to the touch, all the signs of fresh seafood are readily visible.

There is also always a way to reduce waste, and it is noticeable especially when this next cart was pushed past me. The contents you ask? The left overs from gutting fish, which are then made into fish by products (not for human consumption of course). More on this later.

And of course, the market it never lacking of a great variety of ready to eat foods. Anything is available from fresh spring rolls, pineapples, to a refreshing bowl of shaved ice. The infinite selection combined with the warm personality of the local Taiwanese vendors, has for me created the lure of the traditional marketplace.

A small catch, better luck tomorrow.

Prior to industrialized production of aquaculture and fisheries, having fish on the dinner table was not quite as easy as a drive to the local supermarket. Driving down to the most southern tip of the beautiful island of Taiwan, we stopped at the boardwalk to soak in some sun and take in a bit of the warm sea breeze.

Silently listening as the rolling waves washed ashore, I enjoyed the soothing tranquility of the moment. That is, until I caught a little old man geared up in a wet suit in the corner of my eye. Excitement took over as I ran down the pebbly beach to get a closer look. This little old man was not plunging himself in still frigid waters for an afternoon swim, he was out to catch himself dinner.

I watched as he slowly swam down the line checking the net he had laid out for fish. This is no easy task amongst the rough waves. When he reached the shore again, I ran up to see the catch of the day.

“Rough waters” he said, “only a little one. Better luck tomorrow”.

There is still beauty in the way things were done traditionally. Although not always worth the effort when viewed from a modern day efficiency perspective, it kept the environment in balance by preventing over fishing. The old man disappeared quietly into the distance once again, as he took with him his only catch of the day. 

Inspired... The first of many to come.

Not quite realizing it at the moment, but this would be the inspiration that began my search for the provenance of food.

Returning to Taiwan earlier this year, I was put in contact with a young chef who is dedicated to organic whole foods. Meeting with her for the first time, she offered to take me to a local organic farm which she maintained a close working relationship with. Not quite realizing it at the moment, but this would be the inspiration that began my search for the provenance of food.

On that rainy spring morning in Taipei, I began my 45-minute train ride into the outskirts of Taipei. A half hour drive up winding mountain roads later, we arrived at a traditionally built old home where the walls were lined with firewood inside a u-shaped courtyard. Here, we were met by a young farmer who looked no older than 30. Getting out of the car, he swiftly handed us rain boots stating that it would be a muddy hike as it had been raining all morning. I pulled them on, and we started out on my first journey through an organic farm.

As we began our trek down the slippery slope, the clouds began to clear and the sun peaked through, sending crisp green rays through the bamboo forest. I was instantly awestruck by the beauty of my surroundings. I silently followed as the farmer led us deeper into the woods.

We soon approached a clearing, and the young man began to explain to me his concepts on sustainability and organic farming. Being the first to pursue organic bamboo farming in this region, his practices were met with skepticism as well as challenges.

One of the biggest challenges he faced starting out, was the pests (aphids: small sap-sucking insects) that took refuge in his crop as the surrounding farms were still using pesticides. While faced with the potential risks and losses as a result, he insisted on pressing on. Just as his confidence began to waver, nature took its course, bringing in ladybugs (the natural predators of aphids) and saved his crop.

As the local species of wildlife began to diversify, he began recreating natural habitats to promote sustainable ecological growth in the area. This effort included manually digging a pond in order to stimulate the reproduction of rare frogs.

With our trip drawing to an end, the young farmer generously harvested the fruits of his labour for us to take. While he cleaned and husked the bamboo shoots, I began to feel the fatigue setting in from hiking up and down the mountains under the sun in 30 plus degree weather. It was then, that I realized the scope of labour required to produce such a crop. Unlike, wheat, corn, or any other produce produced on flat land, bamboo farming is heavily reliant on manual labour. The bamboo survives best on elevated soil, therefore rendering machine harvesting impossible.

I left that evening touched by the passion this young man possessed in regards to using the limited resources that he had in order to create a positive impact on the local environment. I left hoping that I would one day be fortunate enough to revisit this stunningly beautiful landscape. 

A Disconnect… Leading to the Provenance of Food

After recently picking up the book Omnivore’s Dilemma, I found myself sinking deeper into the rabbit hole of desire to pursue the provenance of food.

In order to make educated decisions in regards to consumption, we need to understand the process. In searching for answers, I found myself more confused, realizing a disconnect between my knowledge of food and the modern day reality of industrial production. This disconnect has led me on a journey in the pursuit of knowledge by returning to the roots, visiting organic and non-organic farms, and exploring various preparation methods of food (whether traditional or nouveau). I doubt that my writing will be influential enough to convince any of you to quit your jobs in order to cultivate a self-sustainable landscape, but I do hope that through my journeys, I myself and as well as you, can learn to make more conscious choices in what you eat in regards to sustainability and nutrition. 

Humble Beginnings, A New Direction

Looking back, I finally realized that each step I’ve taken in the past 6 months have led towards the slow beginnings towards the Provenance of Food.

往回想，這六個月的經驗一步一步的帶了我往回走。慢慢的，一步一步尋找食物的來源。

In the heat of this past summer, I was approached by the Taiwanese Cultural Festival organizers to do a short presentation and cooking demonstration for their upcoming event. Having spent 4 months of the year in Taiwan thus far, one of which was to travel with a food writer throughout Taiwan, I began digging for possible topics and recipes in relation to my cultural background and experiences for my hour long presentation. Childhood memories of night markets came to mind, more recently the discovery of delicious seafood restaurants, and the abundance of cheap eats and street stalls. Although all above mentioned are experiences that tourists and locals alike both enjoy, I felt sudden a lack of passion and excitement towards food that I had reveled over for so long on every seemingly too short visit.

今年在離開教了我許多的法試料理餐廳之後，多倫多與溫哥華的台灣文化節主辦單位一次又一次的給了我許多美好的機會。第一次是邀請了我陪伴一個加拿大美食專家返回台灣寫有關於台灣美食的專欄。第二，是創造了一個讓我發表我所看到與學到的東西的平台。在被邀請去台灣文化節中發表跟台灣食品有關的題目時，我想了很久。從小在國外長大的我，一只喜歡吃夜市，路邊攤，海產店，還有各式各樣的小吃。雖然對一個在國外長大的我，或是一個觀光客來說，台灣小吃是一個美好的美食經驗，我忽然在寫演講稿之中發覺我以對這些美食失去了興趣。

At first, I couldn’t quite comprehend this lackluster feeling, then it struck me, my perspective of food had changed the moment I walked into the beautiful crisp green bamboo forest one early summer morning. Although I had not realized this immediately, the recent turn of events allowed me to recognize that the food experiences I appreciated the most in my time spent in Taiwan were not those in which I spent dining (whether at food stalls or fine dining), but those that brought me back to the Provenance of Food. These, were the experiences that I now appreciated and had a desire to share. Thus, began my journey towards the Provenance of Food. 

剛開始，我無法離解為什麼我會突然對熱愛了那麼久的食品莫名的失去了興趣。但想了很久之後才瞭解，我在年初返回台灣踏步進入有機竹林的那一刻改變了我對食物的看法。也因此覺悟到我今年在台灣最深刻的美食經驗不是來置於吃到的美食，而是在尋找食物的來源與精神當中。我也因此開始往尋找食物來源的路走。

Foodie Adventures, Taiwan: Warped Through a Time Machine

Dinner 14 hours after landing in Taiwan that morning, closing in on possibly 48 sleepless hours at this point, I stepped through the doors of a restaurant and almost had to do a double take. Pinching myself, I checked to see if I was dreaming or just plain delusional at this point. It felt as if I had just been warped through a time machine.

Emerging through the wooden doorway, I walked out into a courtyard (well… I was still technically in doors) filled with large round tables covered in red table clothes, tables filled with food, and shops lined with the antique green wooden doors and window frames displaying memorabilia. A rush of servers in old school uniforms from the 60’s serving out dishes carrying scents that trigger a sense of nostalgia for those who still have the taste of these familiar dishes lingering on their tongue. For those like me, who aren’t familiar with this street dining culture, the bustle in the room was enough to get me excited.

DISCLAIMER: One thing to understand about this restaurant before we start is that the food is not meant to be "high end". The food is made to resemble the simplistic, homemade, rustic feel of food eaten in a not so wealthy and gastronomical time. That being said, the you are going for the ambiance and the novelty of the restaurant, while enjoying decent tasting food. 

As the dishes quickly began arriving, our table top began to disappear and will up with an array of different rice dishes (sweet potato on rice, pork lard rice, sakura shrimp on rice), oysters in black bean paste, steamed fish, pork belly, tempura battered shrimp, and more...

For someone who doesn’t usually eat much rice (I know, I’m abnormal for an Asian, it’s like an Italian claiming they don’t eat pasta), I was shoveling the rice down like any normal Asian. The pork lard with rice (as unappetizing as it may sound) was absolutely delicious. It’s like duck fat fried rice, but with pork fat! The fragrant, al dente, individual grains of rice, with just the right amount of fat and saltiness to satisfy any craving for carbs. As for the sakura shrimp on rice, the sweet, crisp texture of the dried fried shrimp were a delicious contrast to the rice.

Surprisingly, the most memorable dish of the night was a chicken broth. Filled with plump, firm chunks of chicken, with the spiciness of whole pickled green chilies and sliced ginger. An absolutely perfect dish to warm yourself up with on a rainy day sitting in a slightly overly blast chilled (air conditioned) restaurant. After finishing enough soup to feed a whole family, I made a mental note to go out and buy a jar of pickled chilies to bring back to Toronto with me the next day for my future attempt in replicating this dish.

As the meal came to an end and my belly was filled with an array of seafood, meats and carbs, food coma induced exhaustion and the lack of sleep started to kick in. I took a quick walk around the restaurant and stood in the faux train station listening to the relaxing sound of the rain on the tracks while the "station" slowly emptied out. This signalled that it was time to head back into the rain and into bed back at the hotel. Good night world! Until tomorrow… 

鳳山懷舊餐廳
高雄館：高雄市鼓山區明誠三路1號
1 Mingcheng 3rd Road, Gushan District, Kaohsiung City, Taiwan
Tel: (07) 522-8852
Hours: 11AM - 12AM 
Website: http://www.oldtaiwan.com.tw/