Tokyo Food Adventure #1: UDON

After bidding my farewells to New York and spending a food and alcohol ridden week in Taipei, I decided to take a break from the madness and book a ticket to Tokyo. Realistically though, if it hadn't been for a friend who conveniently was going on a business trip and had a hotel room that was a 5 minute walk from Shinjuku Station in the heart of Tokyo, I probably wouldn't have booked a ticket and left the next day. Fortunately for me, I had a justification for this trip because it'd be like giving up a free ticket if I didn't hop on the plane.

While booking my ticket, it was decided that I would make this a food adventure in Tokyo that would not be easily forgotten. I would go on a hunt for all the things that Japan is most well known for: sushi, ramen, udon, and beef, amongst other things that I happened to come across. I must admit, having planned to arrive Sunday night and leaving Thursday morning meant not much time for more food than I could fit into my stomach.

Monday Morning
Having had a rough week in Taipei and still trying to recover from jet lag, I opted out of going to the Tsukiji Fish Market my 1st day there. I slept in a little and got some good r&r, the woke up to my stomach growling at me calling out for food. I threw on some clothes and set out on a hunt for my 1st meal in Tokyo. Well, here I'll admit, the previous night after landing, we had already ventured out for some food, and I had scarfed down an amazing bowl of ramen in no time. So, on the search for food, I decided to head to the same area (5 minute walk from the hotel), in search of some authentic Japanese food.

When arriving at the Shinjuku Station, if you walk out and hang a right, walk approximately 5 minutes, cross a major intersection and turn into the 1st small back street, you will find yourself in a couple blocks filled with restaurants with very few foreigners. This is exactly what I was looking for. These were my only 2 requirements: no sushi (that must be saved for the Tsukiji Market), and a place with few or no foreigners (I was looking for something authentic. Simple enough you might say, there's plenty of options aside from sushi in an area with few foreigners. Only trouble with that was, ALL the signs and menus were in Japanese! I had no idea as to what the restaurant was selling, and how I would order anything unless there were big vibrant photographs of the menu outside.

After wandering aimlessly for an hour and not understanding a word on the menus, I finally decided to walk into a tiny noodle shop. Luckily my limited knowledge of chinese came into good use, because some Japanese characters are the same as Chinese characters. Although, I still didn't know what kind of noodle shop it was. For all I knew, it could have been a ramen, soba, or udon shop. I decided to take my chances.



Walking in, it was a cute little shop with a noodle bar and tables, all locals no foreigners. Bingo, I landed in my authentic affair that I was in search for.




Since I was there on my own, I was quickly directed to the noodle bar which was seated by mainly Japanese men in black suits on their lunch breaks.



I asked the waitress hoping that they would have an English menu. Lucky for me they did! According to the menu, small, medium and large bowls of Udon were all the same price. 700yen for either 200, 300, or 400 grams of udon noodles, and a bowl of dipping sauce on the side. But as with any good noodle place in Japan, I had to order the perfectly soft boiled egg with the creamy center! Along with that was some pork "cha sui" and bamboo. All that for an extra 300yen. I was so excited I could hardly contain myself! Soon enough, I had more food then I could imagine sitting in front of me.



As I was waiting for my noodles, I carefully watched those around me eating their bowls of udon as it wasn't the typical bowl of udon that we're used to in North America. Instead of a bowl of udon in soup, I was served a bowl of unseasoned, dry udon. As I watched the man next to me, I figured out the Japanese way of eating udon. A bowl of sauce on the side is used for dipping your udon in. So this is how it was done.



After making my way through 1/2 a bowl of udon, I had to admit defeat. There was way too much noodle, pork, bamboo and egg to fit into my stomach. What I didn't know was at the bottom of the bowl of sauce, also sat a good amount of pork and bamboo. I could barely move at this point.



As I sat there attempting to digest this large amount of food, I started to wonder what the second pitcher contained in front of me. I knew one was filled with water, and then other... tea?



I watched as other people finished up their meal and realized what the second pitcher was for.



The second pitcher is filled with hot water for you to make your own soup after finishing your udon with the left over dipping sauce. PERFECT, especially on a cold winter day.

After my bowl of soup, my tummy was filled and I was ready to go for a nice long walk in attempts to digest all this food. All this yummy goodness only added up to 1000yen (approximately $10CAD). Worth every penny of it I must admit! This meal left me craving another bowl of udon for the rest of my trip!

My Time w/ the Frenchies

Where to begin?

Since the last blog, I bid my farewells to Australia, moved to New York, enrolled myself into the French Culinary Institute, graduated from culinary school, and now on to the real world (well, maybe after my trip to the motherland). So, I guess we'll start with my culinary adventure through culinary school.

Admittedly, the decision of going to culinary school wasn't exactly a walk in the park for me. From no experience in culinary whatsoever, to enrolling myself into a full-time, 6-month program in classic French culinary arts was a big decision. Although I've always had an itching to go to culinary school, after already having moved across the world to attend Le Cordon Bleu in Australia for their restaurant management program and being thoroughly disappointed, I didn't want to find myself in the same predicament again. In the end, the decision was made, bags were packed, tickets were booked, and there I was, wide-eyed and lost in the Big Apple, all alone in a new city once again.

Prior to my decision in enrolling myself at the French Culinary Institute, I did some research into other top ranking schools for culinary arts in North America. Although 1/2 the world away and not being able to visit the schools, I did have the help of the internet. The schools in consideration: CIA (The Culinary Institute of America), LCB (Le Cordon Bleu), and FCI (The French Culinary Institute).

CIA
Known across North America as being one of the top culinary schools, the CIA's program is a 2 year program. Having already done an undergraduate program, then spent 6 months in Australia for school, I wasn't ready to once again invest 2 years of my time in school. Location was also a factor, their campus is not located in a city, therefore reduces opportunities to head out and explore new restaurants (although, great location to focus on academics).

LCB
Let's face it, after having moved across the world and being thoroughly disappointed by their management program, i wasn't exactly ready to invest more time and effort into their school. Although, I did enrol in their management program and not their culinary program for which they are known for.

The Winner: FCI
Also recognized across North America as one of the top culinary programs, short 6-month intensive program (which meant that I wouldn't be in school till I was in my "late 20's"), AND it was located in the heart of Manhattan (culinary capital of North America). What more could I ask for?



The program at the FCI was split into 6 levels, hence, each level consisting of 1 month of classes (Mon - Fri, 9AM - 3PM).

Level 1
Most people that enrol are career changers coming from various different backgrounds. Therefore, they start off with the basics. First off, you learn the basic cuts of vegetables and cooking methods. They then introduce you to essentials such as making stocks, sauces and binding agents. Which brings you into some simple soups as a result of your lectures on stock making. Then you move on to preserved foods: gravlax, duck confit preserved fruits and such. Next comes salads and potatoes (learning how to make potatoes in 8 different methods in 1 day).



After this, comes the good part, MEATS. Starting off with seafood and shellfish. First you learn how to filet fish, both round and flat fish. Then, you get a whole day of shellfish, from lobsters, scallops, clams, to oysters. The full 9 yards.



To conclude the level, poultry (chicken, duck, quail), beef, pork and lamb.



Level 2

Level 2 starts off with an introduction to game meats, veal and organ meats. Organ meats definitely was not my favourite of days. Followed by a whole day of eggs. Baked eggs, poached eggs, omelettes, devilled eggs. Every type of egg imaginable. By the end of the day, the thought of eating another egg was slightly, nauseating.



Next, comes a week of pastries. For those with a sweet tooth, this week is god sent. Souffles, ice creams, sorbets, mousses, profiteroles, tarts, crepes, all though you could wish for.



Lastly, lessons on cheese, pasta sauces, and pasta making to conclude the month.



Oh, of course we can't forget the full day wine lecture that includes wine tasting in a method that I had never previously thought of. Also, a day to allow you to flex your creativity on your final day. You are given an opportunity to make "flounder your way", using any ingredients readily available that day.

Level 3

Level 3 is a test of time, skill and efficiency. Taking your already developed skills in the kitchen, and putting a time limit on when the dishes must be completed. You rotate between garde manger, saucier and pastry dishes. Each day, they tighten the reins ever so slightly to push you to work faster. You are given new dishes each week once you've rotated through each dish for the various station.



Level 4

Level 4 is based on large quantity production and cooking. Eight days are spent in each of the following areas: production, buffet and family meal.

In production, the focus is primarily on large scale production of stocks (chicken, veal, marmite, etc.) for in house use, breaking down various animals and fish (rabbits, chicken, ducks, pork chops, etc.), and if time allows, working on side projects such as smoked bacon, sausages, canapes, etc.

Next comes buffet. In buffet, each team chooses a theme for a buffet in which they will produce a buffet lunch for approximately 100 - 150 staff and students. This involves researching your own recipes, and creating dishes that relate to the theme.



Final rotation is through family meal. With family meal, you are producing lunch for all the students and staff in the building. This, like production, is a fairly labour intensive rotation. Although dishes and recipes are relatively simple, everyone must work fast in order to meet the deadline of 12PM where staff and students line up to grab some grub.

Levels 5 & 6

This is when you actually get to work in the restaurant kitchen. You rotate through the various stations in the kitchen on 4 day rotations. Although great experience for one who's never been in a real commercial kitchen, it is not a realistic representation of how an actual restaurant kitchen is run. You have 4 to 5 people doing the work of 1 person. All in all, a good experience for a non-experienced cook.



In conclusion.... Was culinary school worth it?

Here is what I have to say to that question. The French Culinary Institute is only worth as much as the effort that you are willing to put in. Although the program is great for giving you a basic understanding of food, and the functions in a kitchen, the value of the program really does lie within the networks that the school is able to provide. The more willing you are to dedicate your time and energy to the program, the more opportunities, companies, chefs / celebrity chefs, you will be exposed to. Thus, enhancing your learning experience at the school. For those who aren't 100% sure this is what you are passionate about and want to pursue, I would say that this may not be the right decision for you. For me, it was an absolutely amazing 6 months and I wouldn't trade it in for anything.